Kashgar
Sunday Livestock Market
We had planned our arrival in Kashgar so that we could visit the weekly
livestock market. This proved to be one of our top China experiences - an exotic
mix of donkeys, camels, sheep, cattle, blacksmiths, farriers, saddle-makers,
butchers, knife-makers and food vendors gathered together in a dusty field on
the eastern edge of town. Kashgar is closer to eastern Turkey than Simao, and
this part of Xinjiang certainly felt a world apart from Yunnan.
When we arrived, so were the traders, carts loaded with farm produce; lorries,
camels, donkeys, carts, and flocks of sheep filled the street. We were
constantly having to move as people shouted "Boish! Boish!" (Get out
of the way!).
The periphery of the market was a menagerie of horse tack traders, butchers, and
blacksmiths.
Cattle traders wait patiently for buyers...
The cattle section saw some serious negotiations. The buyer would
progressively hand over his offer (rising steadily) in banknotes as the seller's
expression changed from indignance to ultimate satisfaction. All the time an
earnest flow of banter discussed the qualities (or lack of...) of the particular
beast. Finally, a handshake clinched the deal and the tension vanished, replaced
by smiles all round (and usually rueful sadness on the seller's part - we got
the impression that the Uighurs form close attachments with their animals, treat
them well, and to sell one is like losing a member of the family).
Freda and Edie spent a lot of time watching this farrier at work. He worked
non-stop for most of the day - horses in the morning; donkeys in the afternoon.
Four hooves - Y20.
Kashgar Market in close-up: newly shorn sheep (left); saddle detail (right)
There was much trade in fat-tailed sheep, tethered together in fans (left) or in
two ordered rows (centre) like a strip of Chinese firecrackers. The sheep
shearers were busy as well (right). It takes a long time to shear a sheep with a
small pair of scissors.
It was all a bit like the Black Isle Show really...
The donkey/horse section (left) was also busy with potential buyers test-driving
their mounts; this chap (centre) is carefully trimming the wool around the rumps
of his fat-tailed sheep. This variety of sheep is preferred by Muslims (in fact,
fat-tailed sheep testicles are a famous culinary delicacy - "Afghan Viagra"!);
at one point we all climbed up on the roof of a lorry for better view (right) of
the market action.
Kashgar Town
Our home in Kashgar was the impressive Seman Hotel - it used to be the Russian
Consulate. Lesley stayed here when she passed through in 1997 on her Karakorum
Highway cycle trip. We spent 5 days here, wandering round the old town, visiting
a couple of sights, and getting used to "Xinjiang Time" (as Kashgar is
a couple of time zones west of Beijing, the whole of Xinjiang operates it's own
clock).
Making friends with donkeys was a popular activity in the streets of the old
town (left, centre); metal workers have been plying their trade on the streets
of Kashgar for 2000 years (right).
Freda and Edie loved Kashgar. The Uighur children were incredibly friendly and
keen to try out their English skills.
L: The narrow streets of the old town provide welcome shade; R: Lesley
bargaining hard for a metal box in the bazaar
L: The LEAF family at the Abakh Hoja Tomb; R: Dentist's sign
L: the fantastically mismatched tiles of the Abakh Hoja Tomb; R: the recently
restored Id Kah Mosque. We were shocked by the Han Chinese tourists' total lack
of respect (or simple ignorance?) for Islamic values (with regards to female
dress code) inside the mosque: miniskirts, vests - nothing was too revealing for
these visitors. We suspect that it's yet another manifestation of the erosion of
Uighur and Muslim culture which the Beijing government has been promoting since
1949...
Some final serendipitous Kashgar images (L to R): clothes dye; Chinese
medicine ingredients; old town doorway
From Kashgar we headed east on the 23 hour train journey to
Urumqi, from where we flew north to Altay. We
really enjoyed Kashgar, and would have loved to stay longer, but we had a date
with the moon's shadow...
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