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Lijiang

Firmly on the Tourist Trail in Lijiang

After waving goodbye to Annie, Lesley's mum, in Kunming, Lijiang was our first travel destination. This was particularly symbolic as it's the scene of one of the most famous Yunnan views - taken from Black Dragon Lake Park. Above is our own version, taken on a morning hike by Lesley and Freda. We began by climbing Elephant Hill where we got a splendid view of the Jade Snow Mountain before descending to cross the marble bridge over the Dragon Pond. Beautiful weather and only a few visitors (perhaps put off by the entrance charge). We strolled, took photos, sketched and enjoyed the fresh air.

Down in the old town, things aren't quite so peaceful. This does mean, however, that there are great opportunities for people watching. These Naxi women (above left) were part of a great number of visitors to Sifan Square, where dancers and tourists turn up all day long to celebrate the local culture of the Naxi people. Lijiang is a strange mix of old, new and new-old - a large part of the town having been rebuild, true to its original style, following the devastating earthquake in the 1996. The old town rooftops lie like an expanse of scattered playing cards. In the alleys beneath one can find cobbles, streams, lanterns, wells, bridges and oodles of tourist-orientated small businesses. We spent 5 days here before heading to Tiger Leaping Gorge. We then returned for 2 days before our trip to Lugu Lake and our last visit lasted 3 days, before traveling south to Dali. So despite some reservations, we found it a relaxing place to hang out - particularly after discovering the clean, friendly and reliable Naxi Family Guest House. 

Left: Freda and Edie playing cards outside the Dongba Guest House where we checked our emails occasionally and Ali sneaked off to for chicken curry when it was the half price special; Centre: Freda with a Dongba wood carving in the Black Dragon Lake Park; Right: Freda and Edie enjoying a pony ride through the old streets of Lijiang - the highlight of their stay there.

The Naxi Orchestra, experienced by Ali while the girls slept and Lesley lay feeling ill in bed. Lijiang seems to have a reputation for causing ill-health amongst travellers. Nothing serious, but enough to disrupt a few bus journeys and outings. 

A Naxi lady outside Lijiang's supermarket. She spoke an impenetrable (to us) local dialect, which made communication a bit tricky. A desperate attempt at Mandarin, lots of smiles and nods of comprehension, along with two little foreign children, however, helped to break the ice. We met some wonderful people, thanks to Freda and Edie.