The Pu'er-Simao Ancient Tea Horse
Trail
茶马古道
Cha Ma
Gu Dao
If you didn't already know, Simao is famous for tea production -
see also the Tea Plantation and Tea
pages. In days gone by the tea which was Simao's economic lifeblood was
transported by pack horse caravan from Puer to the surrounding areas (to Beijing, Tibet,
Burma and
India) on the flagstone-paved bridleway of the Cha Ma Gu Dao (Ancient Tea Horse
Trail). A section of it meanders over the tree-clad ridges
north of Simao, and can be followed for 20km or so from the village of San Jia
Cun on the northern outskirts
of town.
Some scenes from the Cha Ma Gu Dao: ancient stone steps; pine
trees being tapped for resin; glades of flowers; wheat fields and haystacks. The
plaques show different characters for Cha Ma Gu Dao - it's interesting to trace
their development through time from oracle bone etchings (left) to ancient
script (right) and finally the modern characters at the top of this page.
The best way to experience this short (4-5 hour) day-walk is
to take the Puer bus northwards in the morning, get dropped off at the start of
the Trail and walk back to Simao from there (there's a little less climbing
involved doing it this way!). So far we've done it twice - most recently in
April 2007 with a group of 7 students, Jayne (the other VSO volunteer at the
College) and Nick & Matt, two GAP students teaching at No.2 Middle School.
The first time, in November 2005, Ali went with students Carl, Mark and John
(see photos below). The weather was a wee bit on the wet side then...
November 2005 (L to R): the lads are smiling because the rain has
stopped; ancient sign on the ancient trail; boundless primeval, mist-covered
sub-tropical rainforest (and the odd tea plantation!)
Second time around, Easter Monday 2007, the weather was
perfect - overcast, cool but bright, and the odd distant rumble of thunder never
materialised into anything more threatening. Here's the team taking a pew on a
handy fallen tree...
On tree (L to R): Jayne, Ivy, Meg, Mandy, Nick, Edie, Freda,
Matt, Magda, Rose
On ground: Bobby Standing (L to R): Sandy, Lesley
The path, beautifully flag-stoned for most of the way, leads
gradually upwards for 500m (left). These brand new signs (right) point the way
at crucial junctures. At a highpoint of about 1845m the path then turns south
and descends towards Simao (1300m).
Freda and Edie loved playing hide-and-seek in the jungle and they
even found this natural vine swing to play on at one point! On the right Lesley
stops to enjoy the view at one of the small tea fields along the way.
The students were extremely helpful with Freda and Edie, who, it
must be said, did require the occasional carry! Here's Sandy with Edie strapped
into the carrying sling (left). This banyan tree (right) was just made for
climbing! Rose and Magda are relishing extracting the girls from their
predicament...
The scenery varies quite a bit, from dense forest (left) to busy
farmland (right). These Simao-style haystacks (centre) are very distinctive,
built on top of a wooden framework (to keep them off the damp ground) around a
tall central pole (sometimes a tree).
Main picture: The view north from just above San Jia Cun. The Tea Trail descends
from the wooded hill on the left skyline. From here it's a short hop to the No.1
Bus back to the College.
Trish, Ali, Freda, Annie - after a day on the Ancient Tea Horse
Trail;
LEAF-go-VSO
