We were away for 3 days and 2 nights. The first day was the
longest (10am - 6pm) - from Langmusi (3300m) we headed west, through the
Monastery and past the Sky Burial Site, then down to the Medical
Spring. Then we
followed the road for a short distance, then climbed up the southern flanks of
Gehesu God Mountain before entering the gorge of the Red Stone Forest (Camp1,
3450m)). Day 2 was shorter - southwards to a high camp under HuaGai God Mountain
(Camp2, 3800m). Later on the mountain was ascended (4155m). On Day 3 we returned
to Langmusi via the Source of the White Dragon River and stopped off for lunch
at Jike village.
DAY 1: Langmusi - Red Stone Forest
Freda had her own horse, but Edie had to share a saddle with Lesley or one of
the guides. We were soon trotting over the grasslands. Ungrazed areas were a
mass of beautiful wildflowers.
The terrain was a bit like upland Norway. Big skies and expansive views. And
skylarks overhead.
After climbing up onto a plateau grassland at 3600m we turned north and entered
a narrow gorge of red puddingstone rock - the Red Stone Forest.
Here, amongst the weird-shaped pinnacles and gullies we met the nomad family who
were to be our hosts for the night. We couldn't wander far though as the
neighbouring tents' guard dogs posed a bit of threat!
DAY 2: Red Stone Forest - HuoGai God Mountain
On Day2 we headed south up to a higher plateau grassland (3800m) where we had
lunch at a nomad encampment and watched the yaks being milked. A further hours
riding led to our overnight camp under HuoGai God Mountain (see below left).
Patrick and Ali went up the mountain (4155m). It is the highest in the area, but
the views were restricted by an approaching thunderstorm. Ali was quite relieved
to get off the exposed flat topped summit area without being zapped...
At the summit was an impressive pile of wooden swords (symbolic of weapons
laid down by warring factions of Tibetans - related to the Home God Festival),
strings of prayer flags, and a littering of small paper prayer sheets -
windhorses.
DAY 3: HuoGai God Mountain - Langmusi
After a cold and windy night we watched the sunrise, had a leisurely breakfast,
then rode off down the valley towards Langmusi, 500m vertically below.
The horses had not taken in water since yesterday so they were happy to reach
the Source of the White Dragon river. Limestone underlies much of the grasslands
(hence their fertility and lushness), but this means surface water is scarce.
This geology leads to some spectacular mountain scenery though.
We passed the Sky Burial Site for a second time and had a last lunch at the
house of one of the guides. Then it was a final bum-aching push down to Langmusi
where we indulged in a Big Mac Yak Attack Burger at Lesha's Cafe and a welcome
bath in our hotel.
LEAF-go-VSO
