Zhongdian is in the far NW of Yunnan, close to the border with
Tibet (see map below). It is situated at 3200m altitude, so the weather is
pleasantly cool in summer. We came here to see a 300 year old Tibetan Monastery
and experience some Tibetan culture.
For our 4 nights in Zhongdian we (or rather Ali's parents!) splashed out
on an atmospheric boutique hotel - the Gyalthang
Dzong, on the eastern outskirts of town. We were greeted by the friendly
staff with hot face towels and cups of sweet ginger tea before being whisked up
to our designer rooms. The hotel even had its own colourful chorten in the
grounds. It was a very relaxing place to stay and the food was excellent - the
Tibetan Hotpot was a meal to remember.
GANDEN SUMTSELING GOMPA
This 300 year old Tibetan monastery complex is supposedly modeled on the Potala
Palace in Lhasa.
A long flight of steps led up to the main monastery buildings. The main temple
halls are fronted with huge drapes adorned with Tibetan longevity symbols and
topped with beautiful gilded roofs or features such as these antelopes.
A gruesome fresco adorning the wall of one hall. Another depicted men receiving
similar treatment. An image of hell?
We spent a pleasant afternoon wandering around and soaking up the atmosphere.
Edie enjoyed twirling the prayer drums.
L to R: mani stones and prayer flags; old man outside the monastery; we made
friends with this lady while waiting for our bus back to town.
BITA HAI
On one day we hired a microbus and headed off to visit this idyllic upland lake
(3540m) in the mountains east of Zhongdian. It was a 40 minute walk down to the
reedy lake shore from the carpark, which meant the place was mercifully devoid
of Tour Buses and the associated mayhem of the infamous Chinese Tour Group!
Down at the lake it started to rain but we had some fun riding these ponies back
up to the road.
The forest was dark, wet and the trees draped with feathery strands of lichen
(L). These are the two girls (C, R) who were in charge of the ponies.
Another couple of Zhongdian photos: more prayer drums at the Tiansheng Natural
Limestone Bridge Hot Spring (L) and the giant prayer drum/tower which dominates
the newly constructed part of 'old' Zhongdian (R). It looks like much of the
town is being rebuilt in traditional style, complete with tacky tourist souvenir
shops much like Lijiang. It's pretty but a bit sterile, and all part of the
Chinese Government's plan to rebrand the area as 'Shangrila'. The truth is,
wherever Shangrila is, it sure ain't Zhongdian!
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